Let’s talk about Sewer Ejector Pumps and how they are used today.
Most homeowners are very familiar with the current residential sewer line issues we all face. These drains require slope and fall in order to operate properly. Things like roots, bellies, sags, cracks, dislocations, corrosion, off-set fittings, etc.. all create clogs and require constant maintenance to be reliable.
But what happens when you do not have the proper fall and slope to connect your new ADU project or Additional sewer line to a nearby operating drain?
You could need a Sewer Ejector Pump?
The pump grinds the solids and moves them as far/ high as you need.
The pumps can include alarms that will go off when issues arise.
The Pump and Alarm will need power but they come with long pigtails for simple wiring.
You will still need a vent. And you can’t use a Studor vent/AAV.
We use Rolled 90s on the unit or a traditional in-wall vent is best.
The sound of the pump is faint and vibration is only when the pump is on. Most don’t hear it being in the ground.
The pump will run less often the bigger the holding tank size is.
There is a chart that tells you what pump to buy.
It uses the sewer lines’ total Height of lift and total Distance of run, in order to qualify the proper pump to use.
The standard nonflush whips and tampons will cause havoc.
The lids to the pumps will need access down the road when the alarm goes off or the pump is in need of replacement, so a design with that in mind is helpful.
The pump has 1 job to do. Pump the pipe’s contents through a check valve placed in line directly above the unit’s outlet.
After the pump stops, this check valve holds back all the uphill contents from coming back into the tank and triggering the pump back on, creating a never-ending pump cycle of On and Off.
It’s important to also have a union and shut-off valve on the sewer ejector line. This is the connection we will need to work on if anything goes wrong inside the tank.
Good Luck and have fun.